Most of the baking I do is pareve, and usually, I don’t mind. But sometimes, I come across a baking or bread idea that absolutely must use dairy. Must must must. No substitutions.
Naomi Rivka is taking a baking course right now and she bakes a lot of dairy. She’ll bring home the recipe and excitedly ask, “Can we make this for Shabbos?” And I look at the kilo of butter or whatever in the ingredients and say, “Not this week, we’re having fleishiks…” She keeps saying we can use margarine instead, and my standard line for this is:
“Margarine is NOT pareve butter.”
I think you’ll agree. Margarine can be USEFUL in kosher baking, but it most definitely isn’t butter. And when what you want is the flavour of butter – there’s nothing like it in the world – then what you need to start with is… butter.
Like croissants. I read about making croissants years and years ago. You take a super-thin layer of butter, sandwich it between super-thin layers of dough, and then fold and fold and fold until you have about a million layers of dough-butter-dough-butter-dough (you need dough on the outsides or you just end up with a buttery, sticky glob).
Baking croissants not only takes genuine DAIRY, it also takes a second ingredient I don’t usually have: PATIENCE.
So you can see why I let it slide for like 20 years, right? But today, falling as it does during the mysterious period between Purim and Pesach when people are Thinking About Bread Products, I decided to go for it at last.
I didn’t use a recipe, video, article, cookbook… anything. Just made a quick eggless, sugarless, oil-less dough, rolled out a block of butter, and before I could lose my nerve, combined them into a thousand layers of dairy-baking goodness.
I may have been in some kind of butter-induced trance, because I didn’t even take any pictures until I had gotten well into the process. I had already rolled the “sandwich” out and cut it twice, I think, stacking up the layers, before I thought to immortalize my creation:
Looks sort of like a butter sandwich.
Essentially, from this point, I rolled the layers out thin (between parchment), then cut it in 3 and stacked up the thirds. You can fold it, but I didn’t. As per my usual, I wasn’t too careful about what shape things turned out in:
Pretty ugly, right? You can fix anything with a rolling pin! Also, it all looks disgusting mushed up together in your stomach anyway, so why even bother, amIright…?
Here’s the next “sandwich.” You can